Travel to Scotland Part 4

We couldn't leave the beautiful area where we had stayed for two days without one last look at Eilean Donan Castle. It is truly magnificent, and we chose wisely in staying within walking distance of it and the cute little town nearby.

Eilean Donan Castle

Our May 7th travels took us towards Glencoe National Reserve. Along the way we visited the Glenfinnan Viaduct, made famous as a Hogwarts Express route in the Harry Potter movies.  Built in the late 1890s, it is the longest concrete bridge in Scotland. It contains 21 arches and is 100' above the River Finnan. It was a crowded tourist destination, but worth visiting.

Glenfinnan Viaduct

We drove through the central highlands on our way to the village of Killin, where we would spend the night. The drive to this area of the central highlands was beautiful. 

the central highlands

Killin is located near the western head of Loch Tay and is quite charming. The River Dochart runs through Killin in a series of falls, which are stunning. It was quite by accident that we found lodging there, and it was a nice spot to explore and spend the night.

The next day we had breakfast in town and checked out the historic bridge, mill and waterfalls. There was also an old cemetery behind our cottage that was interesting to walk through.

village of Killin

We then started making our way back to Edinburgh as we had a 9:55 p.m. flight back to Dublin. We wanted to see the Drummond Castle Gardens, located near Crieff, but they did not open until 1:00. That gave us time to have lunch and then visit the Glenturret Distillery, which worked out well.

sights along the road

The Drummond Castle Gardens were definitely worth the wait! The keep itself was built in 1491 by John, 1st Lord Drummond. The Annexe was built in 1630, and this became the living quarters of the family. This portion is still occupied by Drummonds to this day.

You do not get to see much of the keep, but the gardens are open to tour. The formal gardens were first laid out in the 1630s by the second Earl, combining elements of French and Italian styles. The gardens cover about 12 acres, and it was a treat to see (and hear) the peacocks. This stop was a wonderful way to end our tour of Scotland, and was a highlight of the entire trip.

Drummond Castle Gardens

From Drummond we only had about an hour drive to Edinburgh, where we retuned our rental car and headed to the airport. We arrived in plenty of time to check into our flight, and had an uneventful, short trip back to Dublin. We spent the night at an airport hotel as we were flying home the next morning.

leaving Dublin

One nice thing about flying out of Dublin (besides the direct flight) is the fact that you clear US Customs there, which saves time on the other end. Once we arrived in Charlotte we only had to go and meet the party who was picking us up since we did carryon luggage only. It was the icing on the cake of another great adventure with long-time friends.

Travel to Scotland Part 3

I forgot to mention in my Travel to Scotland Part 1 post that when we were walking around Edinburgh May 2nd, we came across a large group of people line dancing by the National Gallery. As it turns out, May 2nd was International Line Dance Flash Mob day. Who knew? So of course I had to jump in and take part in that. I've always wanted to see a flash mob, and now I have not only seen one but also participated in one!

International Line Dance Flash Mob 2026

Anyway, back to Part 3 of the trip. On May 5th after our full Scottish breakfast we headed to the nearby Culloden Battlefield. The famous battle took place on April 16, 1746 and it marked the end of the Jacobite Rising. In less than an hour, the British government army crushed the rebellion of Bonnie Prince Charlie, permanently ending Stuart claims to the throne and devastating traditional Scottish Highland culture.

Culloden Battlefield

From there we drove to Urquhart Castle. Situated on the shores of Loch Ness (where we did not see the Loch Ness monster!), the castle ruins are more than 1,000 years old. Once one of Scotland's largest castles, ownership passed back and forth between England and Scotland. The last of the government troops garrisoned here during the Jacobite Risings blew up the castle when they left.

Urquhart Castle

Our last destination of the day was Ardelve, where we had reservations for two nights at a lovely, small guest house with views of the Eilean Donan Castle. We chose to base here for our exploration of the Isle of Skye. The drive to Ardelve was beautiful, and our walk to a nearby town that evening for dinner took us by peaceful sheep and the castle.

Ardelve

May 6th we began our day with another wonderful Scottish breakfast, and our hostess suggested that we take the ferry to the Isle of Skye as opposed to driving across the bridge. Before driving to the ferry, we stopped for a closer look of the Eilean Donan Castle.

Eilean Donan Castle

The Glenelg Skye Ferry is unique in that it is the only remaining turntable ferry in the world. It was built in 1969 and can carry up to six cars and twelve people, though ours was the only car on board for our passage. It was a very unique experience, and I'm glad our hostess made the suggestion.

Glenelg Skye Ferry

The Isle of Skye is just as beautiful as you can imagine. Located off of Scotland's northwest coast, the island is fifty miles long, and the largest of the Inner Hebrides. It is rugged and picturesque with many ruins and coastal stops that beg to be photographed. 

Isle of Skye

We came across our first Highland cows, or hairy coos as they are affectionately called by the locals. They have shaggy, reddish-colored coats, curved horns, and a fringe of bangs over their foreheads.

hairy coos

Along the drive we visited the ruins of Duntulm Castle. During the 17th century it was the seat of the chiefs of Clan McDonald of Sleat. The McDonalds abandoned the castle around 1730 and moved to nearby Monkstadt House and later Armadale Castle in Sleat.

Duntulm Castle

After completing the loop on our agenda for the day we headed back to our inn. We took another walk into the nearby town for dinner, and enjoyed the view of Eilean Donan Castle at dusk.

Eilean A Cheo guest house and Eilean Donan Castle

Travel to Scotland Part 2

On May 4th we picked up our rental car in Edinburgh - a non-diesel, automatic, small SUV. This really helped with lower fuel prices and anxiety as we navigated narrow roads and roundabouts while driving on the opposite side of the road. Our designated stop for the night was Inverness, but we had some wonderful places to stop along the way.

A little over an hour north of Edinburgh we visited Huntingtower Castle. Formerly known as Ruthven Castle, the oldest part is a three-story, 15th-century tower and garret. The second, four-story, tower house was built in the 16th century. Built close to the first structure, the buildings were connected towards the end of the 16th century by a three-story structure containing a staircase.

Huntingtower Castle

A short, 40 minute drive north of Huntingtower Castle is Blair Castle & Gardens. Home to the Atholl family for over 750 years, its origins date back to 1269. It holds the distinction of being one of Scotland's oldest continuously inhabited castles. It is also home to Europe's last remaining private army, the Atholl Highlanders. It was well worth the drive to tour the castle and gardens.

Blair Castle & Gardens

We next drove to see the Clava Cairns, a unique collection of three stone structures. Little is known about who built them, but it is believed they date to the Bronze Age. Rumor has it that the stones were the inspiration for the stone circle where Claire falls through time in the Outlander books. It is very unique, for sure.

Clava Cairns

We finished the day by driving to our lodging in Inverness, where we were able to walk to have dinner and enjoy a little of the sights in town.

Inverness

Travel to Ireland Part 3

Shetland pony

On May 1 we said goodbye to the animals of Ballyseede Castle and made our way to Limerick. We were hoping to see White House Bar, established in 1812. It is not only the oldest bar in town but also one with a storied literary heritage. Unfortunately it did not open until later in the day, so we just drove by for a quick photo of the outside.

We stopped by St. Mary's Cathedral, founded in 1168. It is the oldest continuously operated building in Limerick. It is a cathedral of the Church of Ireland, and is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary.

St. Mary's Cathedral

We also visited nearby King John's Castle. The castle construction on the River Shannon was overseen by King John, brother of Richard the Lionhearted, between 1200 and 1210. He wanted to secure British power in Ireland. It's a little hard to get a sense of the castle as they have turned the main outdoor area into a performance center, but the views from the top were definitely worth seeing.

King John's Castle

Our last stop of the day was a visit to the Cliffs of Moher. This is always on the bucket list for anyone traveling to Ireland. When I first went with my husband nearly 30 years ago, we renamed it the Cliffs of Less as it was so foggy you couldn't even see the cliffs. My sister and I visited 20 years ago and had a wonderful, if very windy, weather day. On this trip it was overcast, but still very pretty.  My observation is that Ireland has taken what was once a scenic, natural experience and turned it into a tourist trap. The huge, paid parking lot is quite a hike to get to the now-paved trails you must take to get to the viewing areas. That was somewhat disappointing to me.

Cliffs of Moher

After our visit we checked into our airport hotel and returned the rental car as we had an extremely early flight out of the Shannon Airport to Edinburgh the next morning.

 

Peru & Ecuador - Part 9

Friday, December 5th was our last full day at Kuyana Lodge. The options for excursions that morning included a hike through the jungle, which the guide said would be much longer and harder than any we had done so far, or a hike through a cave. In light of the described difficulty, my family opted to do the cave trip.

I have no fascination with caves in general, but once he said that the water would be chest-high in places, my decision was made. Chest-high water on most people equates to being over my head. I also did not relish the thought of slogging through water in knee-high boots, which would immediately be filled at that depth. While I brought water shoes for the Galapagos portion of the trip, the sand had rubbed the tops of my toes raw on the last expedition we did there. All that combined made it easy for me to say that I would remain at the resort. 

As no other guests had arrived at the lodge yet, I again had the place to myself. We had been told that more people were coming that night, and it was obvious from the staff activity that more guests were expected. I took the time to rearrange all my belongings in the suitcase and backpack for the next morning's departure before strolling around the resort snapping photos. Then I parked myself at the pool until my husband and daughter returned. They both agreed that I had made the correct choice in staying behind as the cave hike was dark, cold, and strenuous.

around the resort

The rest of my family returned in time for lunch. We then spent time at the pool. An afternoon rain shower came in, so I entertained myself by taking pictures of the rain drops on the pool water surface.

rain on the pool

For our last dinner there was a marked difference in the dining area. Now that other guests had arrived, there were different place mats, the napkins were folded all fancy, and there were candles on the tables, along with a large leaf with the guest's name on it. Those things actually made us feel pretty insignificant since we didn't have them for the other meals while we were there. Ramona was also brought out of her living quarters for the meal. From other reviews that I have read, I think this is a frequent occurrence while guests are there. She was not previously brought out to dine with us, only to join us on the one hike.

last dinner

Following dinner we returned to our cabin. We had to pack for the next morning's departure and get through one last tepid shower. In the morning we enjoyed one final delicious meal before the prearranged car arrived to pick us up for the three and a half hour drive back to Quito.

last breakfast

sunset out the hotel room window

We elected to stay at a hotel near the airport as we had a fairly early flight out the next morning. Luckily the restaurant for the included breakfast opened at 5:30 so we were able to eat before heading out on the airport shuttle. Everything went smoothly at the airport, and we left on time to Miami, where we would catch the plane for the last leg of our journey. Our daughter was on the same flight to Miami, so it was nice to have some final time with her on the plane and in the American Airlines lounge in Miami.

We all made it home safe and sound. It was an amazing adventure, and one that we will be talking about for years to come. Super big bonus was that none of us got sick, either on the trip or after we got home. That is always a concern with travel, especially in cold and flu season. Now - where to next?

Peru & Ecuador - Part 8

The next day we talked to our guide about changing lodging since we had no hot water. After looking at the options, we decided to stay in our unit since it was the only one that had two bedrooms and two bathrooms. The guide was able to show us a temporary solution to the problem. We had to open a spout on the cabin and drain out a bunch of water before the shower would heat up. That sort of defeats the "eco-lodge" impact, but at least it made the water tepid instead of frigid.

After breakfast that morning, which was December 4th, we had a busy touring day. We first drove to the Laguna Kawana Reserve in Puerto Misahuallí. This was a canoe-based experience, where we traveled through brackish water, spotting many birds above and piranhas in the water. We also got off the canoe and hiked a trail, enabling us to see various monkeys and even a sloth up in the tree!

Laguna Kawana Reserve

After leaving the reserve we went to the Centro de turismo Comunitario Shiripuno, a women-run Amazonian Kichwa cultural center which hopes to preserve their traditions. We had our faces painted, watched and participated in dances, and learned about their eco-tourism initiatives.

cultural center

A short drive then took us to the Misahualli River, which is a tributary of the Amazon River. There we boarded another canoe, which took us to Monkey Island, home of playful Machin monkeys. We first visited a reserve that is home to one of the largest ceibo trees in Ecuador. Then we had lunch in the town of Misahualli before exploring a bit. Of course we sought out the monkeys which give the island its name. They were very comfortable with people around, and were fun to watch. After that we took a canoe back to the car for the drive back to our lodge, which was about an hour away.

Monkey Island

We had another delicious dinner, again with only the three of us at the lodge, before turning in for the night. We had hot water on our side of the cabin, but our daughter's bathroom did not. Sigh...

dinner

Celebrating Seventy

Charlotte skyline

We have often traveled with our friends, Kathy and Paul. Kathy and I went to high school together, and later college at Iowa State University. Our birthdays are three days apart, with hers falling on Halloween. Jim and Paul were fraternity brothers at Iowa State, so we have all known each other a long time.

Paul and Jim put their heads together to plan a surprise for Kathy and me as we were both turning 70. They booked us into the Orchid Bay Resort in Belize. None of us had been to that country before, which is surprising since Paul was a captain for a major airline and has been around the world.

coming into Belize

Our ungodly early flight on October 30th necessitated a 4:30 a.m. Uber pickup, which was ugly. We had a few delays out of Charlotte due to maintenance issues and the government shutdown which has resulted in a shortage of control tower workers. From Charlotte we flew to Atlanta so that we could be on the same plane with our friends for the journey to Belize.

The resort was a two hour drive north of the Belize City airport, so we definitely wanted to share transportation for that ride. Upon checking in we were offered a welcoming beverage before being shown to our separate, thatched-roof casitas. They were lovely and included a good-sized screened lanai, which we took advantage of in the mornings and evenings. 

welcome to Orchid Bay

The next day we hung out at the resort. Because we had the all-inclusive package, we could have anything we wanted to eat and drink. We did some hiking on the resort grounds, played some games and also took out the kayaks to paddle around looking for birds. On Saturday we took a boat ride, which included a visit to some Mayan ruins, a trip down the New River, some snacks and then a stop to watch the sun set over the bay. It was lovely. Following dinner that night the staff provided both Kathy and me with our own cakes while they sang Happy Birthday to us.

birthday celebration

Sunday was our last full day at the resort. We decided to do a snorkeling expedition. Following a breakfast sandwich we made our way to the boat dock to meet the captain and his crew. It was only the four of us as passengers, so that was nice. They first took us to Bacalar Chico National Park & Marine Reserve, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is the only place in the Western Hemisphere that a reef touches land.

Bacalar Chico

Next we made our way to the Belize Barrier Reef. Part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System, it is the largest barrier reef in the Northern Hemisphere and the second largest in the world. As we have also been to the Great Barrier Reef off Australia, we have now snorkeled at the world's two largest reefs. The first stop that we made was not very pretty nor were there very many fish. The second stop was super shallow and when the captain said you had to walk backwards over rocks to get to the deeper water, I decided to wait in the boat. That ended up to be a good call as they quickly spotted sharks and hustled the others back to the boat. The third stop was much better in that the coral looked healthier and there were a lot of fish. I will say that I have never snorkeled where there were not a ton of other boats around. We were the only ones there. And also normally the guides will feed the fish to draw them in, but that was not the case here. The fish were just there without added enticement.

snorkeling

One of the most interesting things to happen is that the assistants on the boat captured some conchs. They brought them on board and showed us how the conch hides within its shell. You have to tap the shell in a certain spot to loosen the conch so you can pull it out. They placed the shells back in the water as they become a home for other sea creatures. They then cleaned up the conch and served it in a dish called ceviche. You really can't have any seafood that is fresher than that!

conch

Following our breakfast Monday we make the two hour trek back to the airport. I have to say, it was a lot easier to leave the country than to enter it. When we arrived there were three other lines/checkpoints to go through once you got through Customs. Ridiculous... 

Our flight to Atlanta left a little late, but we had sufficient layover time in Atlanta to weather that. Plus our flight leaving Atlanta was late anyway, so no big deal. Going through Customs in Charlotte was a piece of (birthday) cake since we have Global Entry. It is worth every penny if you do international travel.

goodbye Belize

Kentucky Whisky

A couple weeks ago we drove up to St. Louis to see friends and family. As it is a long drive, we stopped in Loretto, Kentucky so we could experience the Maker's Mark Distillery tour. There's a bit of a connection between Loretto and Webster Groves, the St. Louis suburb that we lived in before moving to North Carolina.

Loretto is known as the national home of the Sisters of Loretto, which were founded in 1812 to provide education and serve the community. The early nuns enlisted the aid of Father Charles Nerinckx, the Flemish missionary priest who served the area, to help them establish their community. We visited the Loretto campus, and saw the sign for a road named Nerinx. 

Sisters of Loretto

In Webster Groves, very near where we lived, is a girl's Catholic school called Nerinx Hall. It was founded in 1924 following the Loretto values, and the name is a tribute to Reverend Charles Nerinckx of Kentucky. Also nearby is Webster University, which was founded in 1915 by the Sisters of Loretto as Loretto College. It was one of the first women's colleges west of the Mississippi River.

In Loretto we stayed at the Hill House Bed & Breakfast, a home that was built in 1863. We had a lovely stay there, and the hosts recommended that we head to Yellowstone Bourbon for a free flight of whisky. As I am not a whisky fan (and felt bad about only getting a free flight with our coupon) I ordered a gin Old Fashioned. It was tasty!

Yellowstone Bourbon

Following a delicious breakfast at the B & B, we drove the few miles down the road to Maker's Mark. The campus, also known as Star Hill Farms, is approximately 1,100 acres. Our tour began at 11:00 and lasted an hour and a half. The tour guide provided a lot of interesting information about the history of Maker's Mark and the process they use to make, bottle, label, seal and ship their whisky. An added bonus for us was the Chihuly glass exhibit that is taking place this year. After the tour we made our way to Huntingburg, Indiana, where we spent the night at our daughter-in-law's parent's house. They are right on the way to St. Louis, so it was great to be able to catch up with them for a bit. 

Maker's Mark Distillery

Grandma Time

 Following our week in Massanutten, I spent a little over a week with the kids to help out with my granddaughter while my daughter-in-law went away for the long holiday weekend. They had her in daycare for the first few days so I took advantage of the beautiful weather and enjoyed a local park and long walks with Monty, their small dog.

Green Springs Gardens

I also visited our nation's capital. I rode the train in with my daughter-in-law, so I arrived pretty early in the morning. A good friend from college lives in Arlington, so she took the metro in and met me on the mall. We had an incredible day together, picking right up as if we had just seen each other last month instead of years ago. We saw many of the iconic structures of DC in addition to stopping at some of the Smithsonian exhibits. I logged over 22,000 steps, and had the time of my life. It never gets old to visit the seat of our democracy.

Washington, DC

On Friday we took A to the National Zoo. It was another beautiful day, and we were blessed to see the new pandas that have arrived from China. There's nothing like a trip to a zoo to bring out the kid in all of us.

National Zoo

The days passed quickly, and soon it was time for me to fly home. It was such a treat to get to spend so much time with my sweet little gal (and her parents, too, of course!) She is still very much a grandma's girl, so I'm going to eat that up while I can. I know it won't last forever.

Relatives in Reno

American Airlines

Last week we flew to Reno to see Jim's aunt, uncle (M & L) and cousins. Jim's dad was one of 11 children, and only two are still alive. It has been many years since we have seen them, and I had never visited Reno. I had a conference at Lake Tahoe over 40 years ago, but I did not have time to really see the area, so this trip was an opportunity to see not only family, but also do some sight-seeing.

Jim's cousin and his wife (J & C), whom we had visited in Phoenix in March, also flew in. The four of us stayed at the Peppermill Resort Hotel, which is also a big casino. None of us are gamblers, but the hotel was recommended by the local cousins. It was beautiful, and the location was good for what we wanted to do and see.

We saw Jim's aunt and uncle along with one of their daughters the first night we arrived, and had a lovely meal with them. It is always great when you get together with people you haven't seen in years, but can pick up right where you left off.

The next morning we picked up donuts and went to M & L's house for a bit before heading out to tour the area. Jim's cousin had prepared a great map for us, and we visited Truckee (a charming town) before driving around Lake Tahoe. We picked up sandwiches and ate them along the lake as it was such a pretty day. What a gorgeous area! Back at M & L's we were treated to another delicious dinner.

Truckee and Lake Tahoe

We began Friday morning with pickleball at a wonderful indoor facility called 3rd Shot Pickleball. We are so fortunate that J & C love to play as well! Surprisingly, we were the only ones playing. It's hard to pay the rent with that kind of revenue (or lack thereof). After stopping to have coffee with M & L, we drove to Virginia City and had lunch in an old saloon. We went back to M & L's for dinner and met up with some more of the cousins. On the way back to the hotel, we drove to see some of Reno's iconic sights lit up at night.

Reno signs at night

Saturday morning we hit the pickleball courts again, only to find that we were once again the only people in the building. After a half hour or so, a lady came in and met with a coach. It was so surprising to see a lack of players on a Saturday, especially as the weather wasn't great. Following play we went back to the hotel to clean up, and then did a driving tour of Reno. I always research ahead of time to see what oddities exist in or on the way to our destination, and I found no lack of choices in Reno. The cousins got a kick out of trying to find them. We went out to dinner with a few of the cousins.

Reno oddities

J & C were flying out on Sunday afternoon, so we all met for a lovely brunch at M & L's house. Many of the local relatives were able to come, so it was great to be able to catch up and meet the newest members of the family. We were loaned a car in the afternoon, and went to Donner's Pass to the museum. We learned of the sad tale of a settlers group who had tried to take a wagon train to California, only to get trapped by a freak blizzard. The weather Sunday was cool and rainy, with the wind chill making it feel like 35 degrees. We opted not to do any hiking or walk along the lake. We grabbed lunch a a cute barbecue restaurant (which seemed a little ironic considering the information we had just learned at the museum), and then headed back to our hotel.

We returned the car to L the next morning, and had a last good-bye with M & L before going to the airport. Our flight left Reno pretty much on time, and we had a layover in Dallas. The flight out of Dallas was delayed, and instead of getting home at 9:50 at night we didn't get in until 11:20. But despite all the hassles, it was so good to be able to see all the relatives, especially since family reunions are probably a thing of the past.