Peru & Ecuador - Part 9

Friday, December 5th was our last full day at Kuyana Lodge. The options for excursions that morning included a hike through the jungle, which the guide said would be much longer and harder than any we had done so far, or a hike through a cave. In light of the described difficulty, my family opted to do the cave trip.

I have no fascination with caves in general, but once he said that the water would be chest-high in places, my decision was made. Chest-high water on most people equates to being over my head. I also did not relish the thought of slogging through water in knee-high boots, which would immediately be filled at that depth. While I brought water shoes for the Galapagos portion of the trip, the sand had rubbed the tops of my toes raw on the last expedition we did there. All that combined made it easy for me to say that I would remain at the resort. 

As no other guests had arrived at the lodge yet, I again had the place to myself. We had been told that more people were coming that night, and it was obvious from the staff activity that more guests were expected. I took the time to rearrange all my belongings in the suitcase and backpack for the next morning's departure before strolling around the resort snapping photos. Then I parked myself at the pool until my husband and daughter returned. They both agreed that I had made the correct choice in staying behind as the cave hike was dark, cold, and strenuous.

around the resort

The rest of my family returned in time for lunch. We then spent time at the pool. An afternoon rain shower came in, so I entertained myself by taking pictures of the rain drops on the pool water surface.

rain on the pool

For our last dinner there was a marked difference in the dining area. Now that other guests had arrived, there were different place mats, the napkins were folded all fancy, and there were candles on the tables, along with a large leaf with the guest's name on it. Those things actually made us feel pretty insignificant since we didn't have them for the other meals while we were there. Ramona was also brought out of her living quarters for the meal. From other reviews that I have read, I think this is a frequent occurrence while guests are there. She was not previously brought out to dine with us, only to join us on the one hike.

last dinner

Following dinner we returned to our cabin. We had to pack for the next morning's departure and get through one last tepid shower. In the morning we enjoyed one final delicious meal before the prearranged car arrived to pick us up for the three and a half hour drive back to Quito.

last breakfast

sunset out the hotel room window

We elected to stay at a hotel near the airport as we had a fairly early flight out the next morning. Luckily the restaurant for the included breakfast opened at 5:30 so we were able to eat before heading out on the airport shuttle. Everything went smoothly at the airport, and we left on time to Miami, where we would catch the plane for the last leg of our journey. Our daughter was on the same flight to Miami, so it was nice to have some final time with her on the plane and in the American Airlines lounge in Miami.

We all made it home safe and sound. It was an amazing adventure, and one that we will be talking about for years to come. Super big bonus was that none of us got sick, either on the trip or after we got home. That is always a concern with travel, especially in cold and flu season. Now - where to next?

Peru & Ecuador - Part 8

The next day we talked to our guide about changing lodging since we had no hot water. After looking at the options, we decided to stay in our unit since it was the only one that had two bedrooms and two bathrooms. The guide was able to show us a temporary solution to the problem. We had to open a spout on the cabin and drain out a bunch of water before the shower would heat up. That sort of defeats the "eco-lodge" impact, but at least it made the water tepid instead of frigid.

After breakfast that morning, which was December 4th, we had a busy touring day. We first drove to the Laguna Kawana Reserve in Puerto Misahuallí. This was a canoe-based experience, where we traveled through brackish water, spotting many birds above and piranhas in the water. We also got off the canoe and hiked a trail, enabling us to see various monkeys and even a sloth up in the tree!

Laguna Kawana Reserve

After leaving the reserve we went to the Centro de turismo Comunitario Shiripuno, a women-run Amazonian Kichwa cultural center which hopes to preserve their traditions. We had our faces painted, watched and participated in dances, and learned about their eco-tourism initiatives.

cultural center

A short drive then took us to the Misahualli River, which is a tributary of the Amazon River. There we boarded another canoe, which took us to Monkey Island, home of playful Machin monkeys. We first visited a reserve that is home to one of the largest ceibo trees in Ecuador. Then we had lunch in the town of Misahualli before exploring a bit. Of course we sought out the monkeys which give the island its name. They were very comfortable with people around, and were fun to watch. After that we took a canoe back to the car for the drive back to our lodge, which was about an hour away.

Monkey Island

We had another delicious dinner, again with only the three of us at the lodge, before turning in for the night. We had hot water on our side of the cabin, but our daughter's bathroom did not. Sigh...

dinner

Celebrating Seventy

Charlotte skyline

We have often traveled with our friends, Kathy and Paul. Kathy and I went to high school together, and later college at Iowa State University. Our birthdays are three days apart, with hers falling on Halloween. Jim and Paul were fraternity brothers at Iowa State, so we have all known each other a long time.

Paul and Jim put their heads together to plan a surprise for Kathy and me as we were both turning 70. They booked us into the Orchid Bay Resort in Belize. None of us had been to that country before, which is surprising since Paul was a captain for a major airline and has been around the world.

coming into Belize

Our ungodly early flight on October 30th necessitated a 4:30 a.m. Uber pickup, which was ugly. We had a few delays out of Charlotte due to maintenance issues and the government shutdown which has resulted in a shortage of control tower workers. From Charlotte we flew to Atlanta so that we could be on the same plane with our friends for the journey to Belize.

The resort was a two hour drive north of the Belize City airport, so we definitely wanted to share transportation for that ride. Upon checking in we were offered a welcoming beverage before being shown to our separate, thatched-roof casitas. They were lovely and included a good-sized screened lanai, which we took advantage of in the mornings and evenings. 

welcome to Orchid Bay

The next day we hung out at the resort. Because we had the all-inclusive package, we could have anything we wanted to eat and drink. We did some hiking on the resort grounds, played some games and also took out the kayaks to paddle around looking for birds. On Saturday we took a boat ride, which included a visit to some Mayan ruins, a trip down the New River, some snacks and then a stop to watch the sun set over the bay. It was lovely. Following dinner that night the staff provided both Kathy and me with our own cakes while they sang Happy Birthday to us.

birthday celebration

Sunday was our last full day at the resort. We decided to do a snorkeling expedition. Following a breakfast sandwich we made our way to the boat dock to meet the captain and his crew. It was only the four of us as passengers, so that was nice. They first took us to Bacalar Chico National Park & Marine Reserve, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This is the only place in the Western Hemisphere that a reef touches land.

Bacalar Chico

Next we made our way to the Belize Barrier Reef. Part of the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef System, it is the largest barrier reef in the Northern Hemisphere and the second largest in the world. As we have also been to the Great Barrier Reef off Australia, we have now snorkeled at the world's two largest reefs. The first stop that we made was not very pretty nor were there very many fish. The second stop was super shallow and when the captain said you had to walk backwards over rocks to get to the deeper water, I decided to wait in the boat. That ended up to be a good call as they quickly spotted sharks and hustled the others back to the boat. The third stop was much better in that the coral looked healthier and there were a lot of fish. I will say that I have never snorkeled where there were not a ton of other boats around. We were the only ones there. And also normally the guides will feed the fish to draw them in, but that was not the case here. The fish were just there without added enticement.

snorkeling

One of the most interesting things to happen is that the assistants on the boat captured some conchs. They brought them on board and showed us how the conch hides within its shell. You have to tap the shell in a certain spot to loosen the conch so you can pull it out. They placed the shells back in the water as they become a home for other sea creatures. They then cleaned up the conch and served it in a dish called ceviche. You really can't have any seafood that is fresher than that!

conch

Following our breakfast Monday we make the two hour trek back to the airport. I have to say, it was a lot easier to leave the country than to enter it. When we arrived there were three other lines/checkpoints to go through once you got through Customs. Ridiculous... 

Our flight to Atlanta left a little late, but we had sufficient layover time in Atlanta to weather that. Plus our flight leaving Atlanta was late anyway, so no big deal. Going through Customs in Charlotte was a piece of (birthday) cake since we have Global Entry. It is worth every penny if you do international travel.

goodbye Belize

Kentucky Whisky

A couple weeks ago we drove up to St. Louis to see friends and family. As it is a long drive, we stopped in Loretto, Kentucky so we could experience the Maker's Mark Distillery tour. There's a bit of a connection between Loretto and Webster Groves, the St. Louis suburb that we lived in before moving to North Carolina.

Loretto is known as the national home of the Sisters of Loretto, which were founded in 1812 to provide education and serve the community. The early nuns enlisted the aid of Father Charles Nerinckx, the Flemish missionary priest who served the area, to help them establish their community. We visited the Loretto campus, and saw the sign for a road named Nerinx. 

Sisters of Loretto

In Webster Groves, very near where we lived, is a girl's Catholic school called Nerinx Hall. It was founded in 1924 following the Loretto values, and the name is a tribute to Reverend Charles Nerinckx of Kentucky. Also nearby is Webster University, which was founded in 1915 by the Sisters of Loretto as Loretto College. It was one of the first women's colleges west of the Mississippi River.

In Loretto we stayed at the Hill House Bed & Breakfast, a home that was built in 1863. We had a lovely stay there, and the hosts recommended that we head to Yellowstone Bourbon for a free flight of whisky. As I am not a whisky fan (and felt bad about only getting a free flight with our coupon) I ordered a gin Old Fashioned. It was tasty!

Yellowstone Bourbon

Following a delicious breakfast at the B & B, we drove the few miles down the road to Maker's Mark. The campus, also known as Star Hill Farms, is approximately 1,100 acres. Our tour began at 11:00 and lasted an hour and a half. The tour guide provided a lot of interesting information about the history of Maker's Mark and the process they use to make, bottle, label, seal and ship their whisky. An added bonus for us was the Chihuly glass exhibit that is taking place this year. After the tour we made our way to Huntingburg, Indiana, where we spent the night at our daughter-in-law's parent's house. They are right on the way to St. Louis, so it was great to be able to catch up with them for a bit. 

Maker's Mark Distillery

Grandma Time

 Following our week in Massanutten, I spent a little over a week with the kids to help out with my granddaughter while my daughter-in-law went away for the long holiday weekend. They had her in daycare for the first few days so I took advantage of the beautiful weather and enjoyed a local park and long walks with Monty, their small dog.

Green Springs Gardens

I also visited our nation's capital. I rode the train in with my daughter-in-law, so I arrived pretty early in the morning. A good friend from college lives in Arlington, so she took the metro in and met me on the mall. We had an incredible day together, picking right up as if we had just seen each other last month instead of years ago. We saw many of the iconic structures of DC in addition to stopping at some of the Smithsonian exhibits. I logged over 22,000 steps, and had the time of my life. It never gets old to visit the seat of our democracy.

Washington, DC

On Friday we took A to the National Zoo. It was another beautiful day, and we were blessed to see the new pandas that have arrived from China. There's nothing like a trip to a zoo to bring out the kid in all of us.

National Zoo

The days passed quickly, and soon it was time for me to fly home. It was such a treat to get to spend so much time with my sweet little gal (and her parents, too, of course!) She is still very much a grandma's girl, so I'm going to eat that up while I can. I know it won't last forever.

Relatives in Reno

American Airlines

Last week we flew to Reno to see Jim's aunt, uncle (M & L) and cousins. Jim's dad was one of 11 children, and only two are still alive. It has been many years since we have seen them, and I had never visited Reno. I had a conference at Lake Tahoe over 40 years ago, but I did not have time to really see the area, so this trip was an opportunity to see not only family, but also do some sight-seeing.

Jim's cousin and his wife (J & C), whom we had visited in Phoenix in March, also flew in. The four of us stayed at the Peppermill Resort Hotel, which is also a big casino. None of us are gamblers, but the hotel was recommended by the local cousins. It was beautiful, and the location was good for what we wanted to do and see.

We saw Jim's aunt and uncle along with one of their daughters the first night we arrived, and had a lovely meal with them. It is always great when you get together with people you haven't seen in years, but can pick up right where you left off.

The next morning we picked up donuts and went to M & L's house for a bit before heading out to tour the area. Jim's cousin had prepared a great map for us, and we visited Truckee (a charming town) before driving around Lake Tahoe. We picked up sandwiches and ate them along the lake as it was such a pretty day. What a gorgeous area! Back at M & L's we were treated to another delicious dinner.

Truckee and Lake Tahoe

We began Friday morning with pickleball at a wonderful indoor facility called 3rd Shot Pickleball. We are so fortunate that J & C love to play as well! Surprisingly, we were the only ones playing. It's hard to pay the rent with that kind of revenue (or lack thereof). After stopping to have coffee with M & L, we drove to Virginia City and had lunch in an old saloon. We went back to M & L's for dinner and met up with some more of the cousins. On the way back to the hotel, we drove to see some of Reno's iconic sights lit up at night.

Reno signs at night

Saturday morning we hit the pickleball courts again, only to find that we were once again the only people in the building. After a half hour or so, a lady came in and met with a coach. It was so surprising to see a lack of players on a Saturday, especially as the weather wasn't great. Following play we went back to the hotel to clean up, and then did a driving tour of Reno. I always research ahead of time to see what oddities exist in or on the way to our destination, and I found no lack of choices in Reno. The cousins got a kick out of trying to find them. We went out to dinner with a few of the cousins.

Reno oddities

J & C were flying out on Sunday afternoon, so we all met for a lovely brunch at M & L's house. Many of the local relatives were able to come, so it was great to be able to catch up and meet the newest members of the family. We were loaned a car in the afternoon, and went to Donner's Pass to the museum. We learned of the sad tale of a settlers group who had tried to take a wagon train to California, only to get trapped by a freak blizzard. The weather Sunday was cool and rainy, with the wind chill making it feel like 35 degrees. We opted not to do any hiking or walk along the lake. We grabbed lunch a a cute barbecue restaurant (which seemed a little ironic considering the information we had just learned at the museum), and then headed back to our hotel.

We returned the car to L the next morning, and had a last good-bye with M & L before going to the airport. Our flight left Reno pretty much on time, and we had a layover in Dallas. The flight out of Dallas was delayed, and instead of getting home at 9:50 at night we didn't get in until 11:20. But despite all the hassles, it was so good to be able to see all the relatives, especially since family reunions are probably a thing of the past.

Cousin Time

Last month we flew to Phoenix to see some of Jim's cousins. Relatives from both sides of his family have winter places in the area, and we had never been to visit. One set of cousins put us up for the week, which was incredibly generous of them. They even had a car that we could borrow!

We spent time with them doing some hiking and eating at some really good restaurants. We got a few games of pickleball in as well, which is always a bonus for us. The community they live in has some very nice courts in addition to golf, swimming pools and various amenity buildings for different activities. I also try to compile a list of unusual/cool sites when we travel, so we picked a few of those off my list as well.

Phoenix Sites

The Desert Botanical Garden was definitely on our must-see list. We were lucky with the timing as there was a special show going on. Light Bloom was an exhibit involving geometric light installations. We arrived at the garden late enough in the afternoon to be able to see the plant material, and then stayed through the early evening to catch the lights. It was pretty stunning.

Desert Botanical Garden

We took a couple days by ourselves and drove up to Sedona. Neither one of us had been there before. We didn't think to reserve a room ahead of time, and did not take into account that spring break would be such a big deal there. We got the last studio at the Bell Rock Inn, which is a Hilton property. It was very nice and had a small kitchen area and nice patio. I think they just had one two-bedroom suite available besides our room. We very much enjoyed our time in Sedona, and the weather about 15 degrees cooler than Phoenix. It is certainly a beautiful area.

Sedona

We got back to Phoenix in time to have dinner with another of Jim's cousins, a sister to the cousin we were staying with, at a great Italian restaurant. They were not super busy, so they did not mind us chatting for a couple of hours.

Our time in Arizona was busy and fun, and we enjoyed catching up with family. Now that semi-annual family reunions are no longer taking place, we don't get a chance to see extended family very often. Hopefully we can keep in touch more often in the future.

Sailing Away - 7

sunrise in Curacao

Friday, February 22nd found us cruising into our last port of call, Willemstad, Curacao. I had never heard of this island until one of the HGTV international house hunting shows aired. Pronounced cure-a-sow, it is the "C" of the ABC islands. This independent country has a population of 160,000 and is 38 miles long and 9 miles wide. It, too, is a fairly flat island.

We had heard much about the town of Willemstad, and how its Dutch heritage as illustrated in its architecture has been infused with the colors of the Caribbean. The four of us decided to do our own walking tour of the area so we could drink it all in. We had arrived in port at 7:00 a.m., so the day was still pretty young when we got off the ship.

The boardwalk along the sea is very nicely done, and it is for sure a walkable community. We enjoyed all the little bridges, and the fact that they had taken the old fort and retrofitted it for commercial and residential use instead of just letting it fall into disrepair.

Rif Fort

The vegetable and fruit market was interesting in that boats bring the produce to market as opposed to trucks. The boats are tied up behind the tents.

produce market

The colors did not disappoint, and we very much enjoyed our day in Willemstad. It was great to be able to spend the day walking around, as we knew the next two would be spent at sea as we made our way back north. We left Curacao at 4:30 p.m.

leaving Curacao 

City of Brotherly Love

LOVE

Last weekend we visited Philadelphia for the American Society of Landscape Architects annual conference. Well, my husband attended the conference and I went along to play. Our hotel was located by the convention center, which was convenient for him and centrally located for me.

Friday night we went out to dinner with two other couples at the R2L Restaurant. Located on the 37th floor of the building, it offers incredible views of the city. Unfortunately it was pretty cloudy that evening, so we didn't see the amazing sunsets that others have talked about. It was still a wonderful experience though.

R2L Restaurant

Saturday one of the other spouses and I toured around the city. We had breakfast in the Reading Terminal Market, an outstanding downtown indoor farmers market (and then some) before heading to the Curtis Building (former home of Curtis Publishing, whose publications included The Ladies' Home Journal) to see The Dream Garden, a wall mural that consists of over 100,000 pieces of Tiffany  glass pieces. It is so beautiful!

The Dream Garden

From there we visited Elfreth's Alley, the oldest continuously occupied residential street in the United States. Many of the homes on the street still serve as residences today, and most of them date to the mid-1700s. One of them is a museum, so we paid the small admission fee to be able to see inside the home, which was built for two sisters who were seamstresses.

Elfreths Alley

After lunch we walked the city some more before visiting the John F. Kennedy Plaza for a close-up look at the LOVE statue and a nice view of City Hall. We took a well needed rest by the fountains before walking back to the hotel to get ready for dinner.

John F Kennedy Plaza

Sunday was more touring, sometimes by myself, sometimes with another couple that I know. I saw the world's largest pipe organ and a huge brass eagle (that were both originally built for the 1904 World's Fair in St. Louis), some street art, beautiful fountains, and the Cathedral Basilica of Saints Peter and Paul.

Philadelphia sights on Sunday

Sunday night was the formal dinner at the ASLA convention, and Jim's partner Ted was elevated to Fellow so it was a big night for SWT Design. As a fellow Fellow, Jim walked Ted down the aisle to receive his award. It was a touching ceremony.

Monday Jim still had sessions to attend in the morning, so I went to see the Liberty Bell and the Irish Memorial. Both of them touched me for different reasons. The bell is such a part of the American story, and it was a thrill to be able to get a close look at it. The Irish Memorial is probably one of the best sculptures I have seen, with each side representing a piece of Irish history explaining the reasons for the mass emigration out of Ireland.

Liberty Bell and Irish Memorial

We had lunch with Jim's partner and his wife, and then Jim was able to join me for a little touring before we had to head off to the airport. It was an exceptional trip in a very historic city, and I am grateful for the opportunity to experience it.

Rollin' on the River

Queen of the Mississippi

Last week the Queen of the Mississippi riverboat docked along the riverfront in St. Louis for a few days. Built in 2015 to carry 150 passengers this paddlewheeler offers various cruises up and down the Mississippi River. My friend and I went downtown Friday afternoon to take some photographs of the boat before its Saturday morning departure. I have to say that the designer did a wonderful job of replicating the look and feel of the old riverboats that used to grace the landing of St. Louis.

The Captain's Return

It was my first time getting a close up look at all the work that is going on around the Arch. The project was supposed to be finished by October 28, 2015, the 50th anniversary of the Arch completion. Whoops! It is still quite a mess in the area, but I'm sure it will be great once it's all done.  The new bike/walking lanes along the riverfront are nice, and there is now an impressive sculpture commemorating the return of the Lewis and Clark expedition on September 23, 1806.  The dog seems to be a little out of scale, or perhaps they took an English mastiff along for the ride.

I was happy to see so many people out and about enjoying the riverfront area, especially as there was a warning from Scott Air Force Base that a demonstration was supposed to take place at the Arch at 6:00 that day. We saw no signs of any trouble however.

Malcolm Martin Memorial Park

Following dinner outside at one of the restaurants on the landing, we made our way across the Martin Luther King bridge to East St. Louis, Illinois. The Malcolm W. Martin Memorial Park offers some of the best views of the St. Louis skyline. I have been hoping to capture some sunset pictures, and wanted to go when I had another person with me. The area is a little remote, and we were the only two people there for awhile. When a car pulled in with two guys in it, we decided it was time to take off. Next time we will go with a group, as we felt too vulnerable. It was fun while it lasted though!

St. Louis Arch

Captain Kirby

Sunday Jim and I relaxed at a friend's lake house. Located about 45 minutes from our house, it is an easy getaway. Our friends are out of town, so it was just the three of us. (We can't go without Kirby - he loves it there!) We packed a lunch and spent the day swimming and going out on the boat. What a great way to end the week.

Vacation...All I Ever Wanted...

marina at Table Rock Lake

When my nephew died unexpectedly in January, my siblings and I talked about how it seems that we only get together for weddings and funerals. We decided it was time for a Kubler family reunion. My sister grabbed the bull by the horn and got things rolling. She knows us too well - a lot of talk and not much action. Because she and her husband own a time-share down in Branson, she booked a week for all of us to stay at one of the resorts there. I will be the first to admit that Branson is not my favorite place, mostly because I do not enjoy spending half of my vacation stuck in traffic on Highway 76. However, I would have gone back to No Town, North Dakota again if it meant spending time with my brothers and sister and their families.

So on the 13th I drove to Union to pick up my sister and brother-in-law, and we rode down together. Jim came down later in the week on his motorcycle as he had some meetings he couldn't get out of. My brother from Texas and his wife arrived that night along with their daughter, her husband and their two children. The rest of the family trickled in as their schedules allowed. At the peak time we had seventeen people spread out among six condos. My children we unable to come as getting to Branson from Los Angeles or Washington, DC was costly and time consuming. Plus they didn't want to take vacation time to go to Branson. I understand that.

The condominium setting was quite lovely, with four outdoor pools and one indoor, and a nice fitness center which I actually availed myself of on three occasions. The units were appointed with everything you needed, and I made breakfast each morning in mine. The rest of the time we either made lunch at my sisters or ate out. We had several evening meals there as well. Trying to go out to eat with that many people was a challenge, but we managed to do it a few times.

home of Laura Ingalls Wilder

I guess the beauty of Branson is that there are so many things to do. (If you don't mind sitting in traffic trying to get there.) My sister, niece, great-niece and I drove the hour and a half to Mansfield to see the Laura Ingalls Wilder museum and grounds. That was definitely a highlight of the trip for me. It was fun to see the houses where she wrote her books, as well as the memorabilia like Pa's fiddle.

Ten of us went on the duck boat, which takes you around first by land and then onto Table Rock Lake. We had a lot of fun on that. The guy who drove our boat was probably the best guide I have ever had on a tour. Not only was he knowledgeable and personable, he was hilarious. He really quacked us up!

my brother and sister-in-law make the most of their quackers

my great-nephew steers the duck boat

But the best part of all was just spending time together and catching up on what everyone has been up to since we last met. We packed a lot of memories into seven short days.